Arriving in the South Pacific
Arrow spent three weeks exploring Tonga and Fiji, including the islands of Vava’u and the remote Lau Group.
After crossing the Pacific from the Galápagos to Tahiti, and on to Tonga, Arrow arrived in the South Pacific. Her first trip here encompassed three weeks exploring Tonga and Fiji – both remote cruising regions known for their untouched nature and rich tapestry of cultures.
Tonga
As the guests were preparing to fly out to the boat, a cyclone brewing in the area meant a slight change of plan. Instead of joining in Nuku’alofa as originally arranged, they met Arrow in Vava’u, one of Tonga’s northernmost island groups. This kept them clear of the worst of the weather and, once the cyclone passed, a welcome stretch of settled conditions followed.
Tonga is a relatively compact cruising ground, centred around a main island with smaller groups scattered to the north. With the main cruising season running from May to October, arriving in mid-April meant Arrow had the place to herself.
From the main town of Neiafu, Arrow spent five days cruising Vava’u, making the most of quiet, pristine anchorages off islands such as Pangai, Taunga and Vaka Eitu – all ideal settings for watersports, fishing and hiking ashore.
While anchored off Vaka Eitu, the group took a snorkelling trip to Swallows Cave on Kapa Island where thousands of fish swim in crystal-clear water. To cap off the day, Chef Dave cooked a barbecue for everyone to enjoy on the aft deck.
On the final night in Tonga, Arrow returned to the dock in Neiafu – an opportunity to refuel and head ashore for dinner at The Kraken.
Fiji
After five days in Tonga, Arrow headed west to the Lau Group – one of Fiji’s most remote regions. So remote, in fact, that she didn’t encounter another yacht for her first 10 days in Fiji.
Made up of around 60 islands, Lau is known for its untouched and varied landscapes, from coral atolls with sheltered lagoons to high volcanic islands with steep cliffs and dense forest. Its isolation has also helped preserve the local culture and traditions over centuries.
Part of what keeps Lau so quiet is the logistics: visiting yachts are usually required to check into mainland Fiji first, adding around 200 nautical miles to the journey. To avoid this, Arrow arranged for immigration officials to be flown out to Delaconi village on Vanua Balavu, along with provisions to restock on arrival.
The same day, Arrow moved to a stern-to anchorage tucked within the islets of Vanua Balavu – a special spot that was previously discovered by Captain Benjamin during a trip aboard Globas.
The days here were spent making the most of the idyllic conditions for fliteboarding, paddleboarding, kayaking and exploring ashore, while evenings saw the return of The Ship Faced Sports Bar in the beach club, complete with darts, snooker and stargazing.
This anchorage quickly became a favourite and Arrow stayed here for two nights (a rarity). But with so many other islands to explore, it was time to get moving.
In Fiji, visiting yachts are often greeted warmly by the island communities, and it is customary to go ashore on arrival to meet the village chief. Visitors present a kava root during a ‘sevusevu’ ceremony, where they are typically granted permission to enter and stay.
Most of these ceremonies are simple formalities, but during the group’s first one on Oneata Island, the chief was understandably puzzled as to how Arrow had properly checked into Fiji without first visiting the mainland. After some explanation, and reassurance that nothing untoward was going on, permission was granted.
Everywhere Arrow visited, the reception was friendly and welcoming. The effort to respect local customs was clearly appreciated and small gestures like bringing gifts for children went a long way. In return, villagers often shared tours of their communities and advised on possible activities.
From Oneata, Arrow made a short hop south to Komo Island. Both islands are low-lying and surrounded by reef systems with natural passes that provide access and are also excellent spots for fishing – with some of the catch even making it to the dinner table.
Careful planning was essential throughout this part of the trip. Distances between islands can be significant, and exposure to ocean swell means conditions need to be right, particularly for the lower-lying islands.
Further west, Totoya Island features a distinct horseshoe shape, formed by the rim of a collapsed volcanic crater enclosing a large lagoon. After navigating its long pass and narrow entrance, Arrow anchored for snorkelling and kayaking, followed by sunset cocktails at Penny’s Lane and an evening of tapas and wine pairing.
Matuku Island was a particular standout. One of Fiji’s high volcanic islands, its rugged cliffs, dense forests and low cloud gave it an otherworldly feel. Hiking ashore and kayaking through its natural harbour were highlights.
The following days brought a mix of experiences: a very muddy mountain bike ride on Kadavu, snorkelling with manta rays off Buliya and a beach barbecue on Namara.
On the way to the main island of Fiji, Arrow anchored off Rukuruku on Ovalau Island, where guests hiked to a refreshing waterfall. Anchored off Fiji overnight gave everyone the opportunity to dine ashore and kayak the large river system in the morning.
As the trade winds began to build, Arrow moved north-west to the Yasawa Group. After arriving at Nalauwaki village on Waya Island and completing the customary sevusevu, some locals led a hike up to Bula Peak. The steep and exposed path made for a slightly nerve-wracking ascent, but the panoramic views from the top were well worth it.
The final days were spent around Drawaqa and Vomo Islands, fishing and enjoying watersports. Despite the Yasawas being one of Fiji’s more popular cruising areas, arriving before the season meant other yachts were once again nowhere to be seen.
No trip would be complete without a quiz night – hosted by Sally on the sun deck – before finishing in Port Denarau Marina with a final group dinner.
Remaining in the South Pacific, Arrow’s next adventure will take her even further off-grid, as she heads to the Solomon Islands and Papua New Guinea.
